Keyboards

My history with keyboards

When I built my first desktop computer in 2011, I had a Razer Lycosa which I had gotten for a discount from Amazon. It wasn't an amazing keyboard by any stretch of the imagination, being a typical membrane keyboard, but it had blue LED backlighting, and I liked that since I like the color blue and I often used my computer in the dark.

By 2013, I decided to grab a Razer Blackwidow Chroma Stealth as an upgrade. This was my first-ever mechanical keyboard, and I really liked the tactile feel of it. It served me well enough for many years.

In 2021, having disposable income for the first time in my life, I got my first GMMK Pro, which was a hyped keyboard at the time. Before then, mechanical keyboards were often not very obtainable, and mass-market options were not particularly well-built. The GMMK Pro stood out as a mass-market option built out of aluminum, and while it was relatively panned by the enthusiasts who were used to waiting for group buys, it had its niche as a keyboard you could just buy off-the-shelf as it was generally in stock at all times. Of course, it had its issues, but most of the issues with the GMMK Pro were relatively easy to overcome. The factory-overlubed stabilizers weren't bad if you cleaned them or swapped them out, and you could get a fair bit of mileage out of modding the keyboard with aftermarket foams, switches, stabilizers, plates, and so on. I liked it well enough that I bought my second GMMK Pro some years later, albeit much cheaper and from eBay. One of the nicest things about this keyboard is that it fully supports QMK custom firmware, so I could compile my own firmware image and layout just the way I like it.

Also in 2021, I got my Drop Alt (low profile) to use on-the-go with my laptop. This is another keyboard that the enthusiasts panned for being too expensive and "not worth it", but there aren't really many (any?) other keyboards that let you connect a cable from either the left or the right, and then use the other side as a USB-C port and hub. This is a genuinely useful feature that motivated me to buy my Drop Alt (high-profile) for my desk setup at home. I wish more keyboards had built-in USB hubs like this, and I have used the second port to connect my Keychron Q0 numpad or Yubikeys in convenient locations.

One keyboard I kind of regret getting is my Zoom65. I bought it because it supported Bluetooth, but I eventually found out that this came at the cost of full QMK compatibility. QMK license violations is an all-too-common problem with many tri-mode wireless keyboards, as I later learned. Anyway, I was going to use it as an on-the-go laptop keyboard, but it's honestly too heavy to be good at that. It's a shame, really... The build turned out looking nice and feeling fairly nice as well. But if I knew then what I knew now, I probably wouldn't have bought it at all.

I doubt I'm going to buy any more keyboards beyond this point, but who knows? Maybe something comes out in the future that is worth my while. I'm pretty satisfied with what I've got, though.

My keyboard builds

My first GMMK Pro

I've specced this out to sound pleasant according to my preferences. In enthusiast lingo, it's "thocky". Buzzwords aside, it's a deep and warm low-pitched sound, with a bit of muted resonance. Less of that harsh "clacky" sound, due to the aftermarket poron foam inside the plate assembly.

Visually, it's a blue-on-silver look, courtesy of the GMK Classic Blue (Blue Base) key cap set.

Build details
Base
Name
GMMK Pro
Description
Navy Blue top frame on Arctic White bottom frame. Navy Blue knob. Aluminum plate.
Layout
Exploded 75% (82 keys and 1 knob)
See also
Caps
GMK Classic Blue (Blue Base)
Switches
Glorious Panda (relubed by hand with Tribosys 3202 grease)
Stabilizers
Name
AEBoards Staebies 2.2
Description
Nylon housing, POM stem. Very tight tolerances to avoid wobble and rattle without needing to mod them.
See also
AEBoards Staebies (CannonKeys USA)
Foams
Name
Keyboard Kustoms Poron Foam Kit
See also
GMMK Pro Poron Foam Kit (Keyboard Kustoms)
Mods
  • Name
    Tempest Tape Mod
    Description
    Applying 1 or more layers of painter's tape to the back of the PCB. (2 layers applied)
    Purpose
    Reflects certain frequencies of sound when keys are pressed, shaping the sound profile to be more "poppy" (a bit deeper and more resonant).
    See also
    Tempest Tape Mod Explained (5:10) -- nearLucid on YouTube
  • Description
    Placing Band-Aid fabric on the PCB underneath the stabilizers
    Purpose
    Softer, cushioned bottom-out impacts and reducing clacking
Top view (navy blue plate and knob with brighter blue key caps) Back view (top half is blue, bottom half is silver) Bottom view (silver, engraved with GLORIOUS wordmark)
Various angles of my first GMMK Pro, showing off the blue top and silver bottom.
A short typing test on my first GMMK Pro.

My second GMMK Pro

This one is using silent tactile key switches (the Akko Penguins), so it barely makes any sound at all while typing.

Visually, it's a green and grey affair, courtesy of the GMK Classic Arabic keycap set. The Arabic legends come in handy when typing in Arabic, since I don't yet know how to touch-type in Arabic and still have to look for the correct keys.

Build details
Base
Name
GMMK Pro
Description
Forest Green top frame on Black Slate bottom frame. Forest Green knob. Aluminum plate.
Layout
Exploded 75% (82 keys and 1 knob)
See also
Caps
GMK Classic Arabic
Switches
Akko Penguin V3 Silent Tactile
Stabilizers
Name
TX AP 2023, Clip-in, 1.6mm PCB, Regular Pole
See also
TX Stabilizers (CannonKeys)
Foams
Name
Keyboard Kustoms Poron Foam Kit
See also
GMMK Pro Poron Foam Kit (Keyboard Kustoms)
Top view (forest green frame, white primary keys, light grey secondary keys, green accent keys, black legends, green arabic legends) Back view (green top, black bottom) Bottom view (black, engraved with GLORIOUS wordmark)
Various angles of my second GMMK Pro, showing off the green top and black bottom.
A short typing test on my second GMMK Pro.

My high-profile Drop ALT

I use this sometimes at my desk when I don't need the function row and when I want a deeper, more muted "marbley" sound. It also looks pretty nice and frosty.

Build details
Base
Name
Drop ALT
Description
Drop Alt V1 PCBA with Arctic Blue High-Profile Case
Layout
65% (67 keys)
Caps
Drop + MiTo DCD Pegaso
Switches
DROP Holy Panda X (Hand-lubed)
Stabilizers
Name
Durock gold-plated plate-mount stabilizers
Foams
Name
Drop ALT Poron Foam Kit
Comment
No longer available after Corsair shut down Drop
Top view (light blue case, white keycaps with lighter blue accent keycaps) Front view (LED diffuser showing light blue) Bottom view (light blue, various screw holes, and an engraved Drop logo)
Various angles of my high-profile Drop ALT.
A short typing test on my high-profile Drop ALT.

My low-profile Drop ALT

This is what I use on-the-go with my laptop. Thanks to its low-profile case, not only does it look sleek, but it also has an interesting sound due to the more open construction inherently reducing any reverberations.

Build details
Base
Name
Drop ALT
Description
Drop Alt V1 Low-Profile
Layout
65% (67 keys)
Caps
KeebsForAll PBT White on Navy
Switches
DROP Holy Panda X (Clear)
Stabilizers
Name
Authentic Cherry Gold Plated Stabilizers (Plate mount)
See also
Authentic Cherry Gold Plated Stabilizers (ZealPC)
Foams
Name
Drop ALT Poron Foam Kit
Comment
No longer available after Corsair shut down Drop
Top view (navy keycaps with white legends) Front view (showing the exposed top halves of the switches) Bottom view (black, various flush screws visible, magnetic feet attached, DROP ALT wordmark)
Various angles of my low-profile Drop ALT.
A short typing test on my low-profile Drop ALT.

My Zoom65

I tried using this on-the-go but it was too heavy. That and the lack of proper QMK support makes me kinda regret this build.

At least it looks cool with that telescope and astronomical aesthetic, I guess? I'm using a clone of the GMK Stargaze color way, but in XDA profile and made out of PBT.

It feels pretty stiff to type on (in a good way), very solid due to the brass plate inside it. I initially bought it with a POM plate, but when the overall build was still too heavy, I decided I'd go all-in on that weight and make a really solid build. The sound is pretty quiet due to the switches, which are the Durock Shrimps, a silent tactile option. They aren't the quietest thing around, but they're fairly quiet. Silencing technology has improved a lot since these were launched.

Build details
Base
Name
Zoom65 Essential Edition R2
Description
Navy case, Anodized Gold aluminum weight and knob. Brass internal plate.
Layout
65% (66 keys + 1 knob)
See also
Zoom65 by Meletrix
Caps
XDA clone of GMK Stargaze
Switches
Durock Silent Shrimp
Stabilizers
Name
Wuque Studio stock stabilizers
Foams
Stock foams
Mods
  • Name
    Holee Mod
    Description
    Applying strips of Band-Aid fabric to the inside of the area where the wires enter the stabilizer stems
    Purpose
    Tighter tolerances reduce stabilizer rattle
Top view (navy keycaps with light yellow accents and novelties. WASD novelties show a telescope, star, planet, and comet.) Back view (showing thickness) Bottom view (navy blue, with copper plate engraved with a telescope logo)
Various angles of my Zoom65.
A short typing test on my Zoom65.

My Keychron Q0 numpad

I use this rarely, when I really need to do some number-crunching.

I didn't bother recording a typing test for my Keychron Q0 because it's just a numpad. If you want to know what it sounds like, it's pretty similar to the sound of my first GMMK Pro, because it uses the same switches and caps, and it also has a similar construction with aluminum and poron foam. It also looks pretty similar.

Build details
Base
Name
Keychron Q0
Layout
Numpad with top row (21 keys)
See also
Keychron Q0 QMK Custom Number Pad, Barebone, Navy Blue (Keychron)
Caps
GMK Classic Blue
Switches
Glorious Panda
Stabilizers
Name
TX AP 2023, Screw-in, 1.6mm PCB, Regular Pole
See also
TX Screw-In Stabilizers (CannonKeys)
Foams
Name
Keyboard Kustoms Poron Foam Kit
See also
Keychron Q0 Poron Foam Kit (Keyboard Kustoms)
Top view (blue keycaps on navy body) Front view (showing the incline) Bottom view (navy blue, with blue padded feet)
Various angles of my Keychron Q0 numpad.

Key cap sets I own

First, a quick rundown of keycap terminology and distinctions.
OEM profile
The OEM profile is the most common profile for key caps. It's sculpted so that every row is at a different angle, optimized for your fingers. Horizontally, each key has a cylindrical curve.
Cherry profile
The Cherry profile is the profile that was originally used by Cherry, and mostly inherited by GMK. A little shorter than OEM profile, and with slightly more angled rows.
DCD profile
The DCD profile, formerly DCP, is Drop's take on a sculpted cylindrical profile, similar to the OEM or Cherry profiles but slightly rounder.
XDA profile
The XDA profile is a uniform profile where each key is flat. This has the advantage of eliminating differences in row heights and angles, so all rows are the same. Because of this uniformity, XDA key caps can be placed anywhere on the keyboard, which facilitates non-standard keyboard layouts.
ABS
ABS is a plastic that is available in multiple bright colorways, and it's easier to inject multiple colors for crisp and clear legends. It also feels smooth to the touch. One caveat is that it is less durable and also tends to develop a shine over time from finger oils and friction. This wear happens unevenly, and in my opinion it doesn't look great, but that's the price you have to pay for the benefits you get. GMK exclusively uses ABS, and many designers partner with GMK to produce their key cap sets.
PBT
PBT can be a more expensive plastic option that is harder to manufacture, but it comes with several advantages. It's more durable, and it doesn't develop a shine over time. You don't get the colorway choices that ABS allows for, but you do get a matte look and textured feel that can be preferable to glossy smooth ABS. Its higher density also lends better to a deeper, "thocky" sound profile.
Multi-shot injection (double-shot, triple-shot)
Multi-shot injection is a technique where a key cap mold allows injecting more than one color of plastic at a time, typically used for legends. Most key caps in this category will be double-shot, using one color for the keycap and one color for the legends. It's also possible to make key caps with more than one legend, such as a triple-shot key cap with one color for the key cap, one color for the primary legend, and one color for the secondary legend (often in a different alphabet). This technique is often used with ABS, but can also be used in higher-end PBT kits as well.
Dye-sublimation
Dye-sublimation is a technique for printing legends onto a key cap using heat and pressure. Legends produced this way take a while to produce, can't be produced in many colors, and are less crisp overall. This technique works best when the key caps are a light color, but the result will probably be fuzzy around the edges. As a side-effect of needing to use a polymer coating to bind to the dye, PBT key caps produced this way can feel smoother.
The Cherry profile uses angled keycaps ranging in height from 6 mm to 9 mm. OEM uses basically the same angles as Cherry, but ranges in height from 8 mm to 12 mm. DSA and XDA are uniform profiles, with DSA being 7 mm tall and XDA being 9 mm tall. SA is a very tall and scooped profile, ranging in height from 12 mm to 16mm. Some SA sets use row 3 for the spacebar instead of row 4.
Comparison of common key cap profiles.
Two key caps next to each other with zoomed-in legends superimposed. Text reads: Sharper, multi-shot legends. Triple-shot in a different color. Fuzzier, dye-sub legends.
Comparison of legend techniques. Left: Triple-shot injection results in a sharp and crisp letter A, as well as allowing for an Arabic letter ش. Right: Dye-sublimation results in the letter A being fuzzier and softer, despite being a best-case scenario of black dye on white plastic.

GMK Classic Blue

Currently used in my first GMMK Pro and my Keychron Q0.

I own the Blue Base kit.

Official render of GMK Classic Blue (Blue Base)
GMK Classic Blue kit (Blue Base)
Maker
GMK
Designer
ARSLOCK
Profile
Cherry
Material
ABS
Legends
Double-shot
See also

GMK Classic Arabic

Currently used in my second GMMK Pro.

I own the Base and Spacebars kits.

Official render of GMK Classic Arabic base kit Official render of GMK Classic Arabic spacebars kit
GMK Classic Arabic kits (Base, Spacebars)
Maker
GMK
Designer
SMOKEY
Profile
Cherry
Material
ABS
Legends
Double-shot
See also

GMK Stargaze

Currently unused.

I own the Base, Novelties, and Alt Alphas kits.

Official render of GMK Stargaze base kit Official render of GMK Stargaze novelties kit Official render of GMK Stargaze alt alphas kit
GMK Stargaze kits (Base, Novelties, Alt Alphas)
Maker
GMK
Designer
dandruff
Profile
Cherry
Material
ABS
Legends
Double-shot
See also

XDA Stargaze (Clone)

Currently used in my Zoom65.

Photo of the Stargaze clone kit from eBay
Chinese clone of GMK Stargaze in XDA profile
Description
Unbranded clone of the GMK Stargaze key cap set.
Profile
XDA
Material
PBT
Legends
Dye-sublimation
See also
Stargaze Keycap Blue XDA Height PBT 137 Keycaps Dye-sub for Cherry MX Keyboard (eBay)

Drop x MiTo DCD Pegaso

Currently used in my high-profile Drop ALT.

I own the Base kit.

Official render of DCD Pegaso base kit
Maker
Drop
Designer
MiTo
Profile
DCD
Material
PBT
Legends
Dye-sublimation

KeebsForAll PBT White on Navy

Currently used in my low-profile Drop ALT.

Official render of kfaPBT White on Navy keycaps
Maker
KeebsForAll
Designer
KeebsForAll
Profile
Cherry
Material
PBT
Legends
Dye-sublimation
See also
kfaPBT White on Navy Keycaps (KeebsForAll)

Switch preferences and experiences

Cherry MX Brown

These originally came with my low-profile Drop ALT. I've since moved on. Cherry MX switches are what everything else is based off of, but these are just soft and a bit mushy and barely feel like anything.

Glorious Panda

There are probably better switches out on the market, especially now, but they are fine for what they are: a slightly cheaper Holy Panda using the original molds for the Invyr Panda. This matters less and less over time, but being 3-pin and long-pole switches means that they don't have north-facing switch interference with Cherry profile keycaps, in case you have a backlit keyboard with shinethrough keycaps... which I mostly don't. This is probably a relatively "safe" switch if you like what it offers and get it when it's cheaper.

DROP Holy Panda X

Despite bearing the "Holy Panda" name, these switches are not like the Holy Panda line at all. They use normal length stems instead of long-pole stems, and the tactile bump is smoothed out rather than punchy. It's not a bad switch, but it really shouldn't have been called the "Holy Panda" X. Nothing stands out as particularly wow-worthy, but it's still fine! It just feels mostly fine. It doesn't offend in anything except maybe price.

Boba U4 (62g)

I bought these and used them for a while in my Zoom65, but I didn't like them very much, so I replaced them with the Durock Silent Shrimp instead. The Boba U4 is too rounded, and the tactile event takes place over basically the whole actuation, in what is colloquially known as a "D-shape" bump.

Durock Silent Shrimp

Durock switches tend to have a nice, sharp tactile feeling. The Shrimps are basically silenced versions of that. They're not the quietest, and there are quieter switches out on the market now. But I still like them quite a bit for what they are. Maybe one of my favorite switches.

Kailh Box Whale Pro Silent Tactile

I bought these and almost instantly returned them because they hurt my fingers. They weren't even that silent, either, so I couldn't really find any reason to keep them, even for potential later use.

Outemu Silent Yellow Jade V3

I bought these but ended up not using them. Too much leaf ping, IMO, which is accentuated by just how quiet everything else was. This is one of those "objectively quiet but subjectively shit" sounds, kind of like how a fan spinning up is technically louder than not spinning up, but if it hides GPU coil white, then it leads to a more pleasing sound profile despite technically being louder decibel-wise.

Akko Penguin V3

The Akko Penguin V3 is a silent tactile switch that's honestly pretty great for how cheap it is. I'd say they are maybe the best silent tactile switch that isn't the Durock Shrimp, and it's debatable if they are better or worse or a sidegrade. They're definitely very quiet without being objectionable in any way; the leaf ping isn't present like it is with the Outemu Silent Yellow Jade. The Penguins are also pretty comfy to type on, with a decent amount of force for what it is (50 gf). Some people say this switch is a bit scratchy, but mine don't seem to be. The shape of the bump isn't a rounded-out D like the Boba U4, but rather it is a top-loaded "P" shape more in line with my preferences. I'd recommend these.